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Archive for the Parts Category

Battery Post Corrosion - what to do?

I was watering the RAVolt’s batteries this weekend (as usual, 1 basterfull per cell) when I noticed that one of the battery terminals is corroded.  The powered is bluish and there is no acid splash around the terminal.  I’m not sure what to do yet, just reporting the problem.  I’ll ask AustinEV for help.

Corroded:

Corroded Terminal

Clean:

Clean Terminal

The Healing Touch

It took longer that I’d hoped to stop chasing the wrong problems before I finally found the real cause. After about 3 hours of hunting, I found two problems: one was a design issue and the other was a blown fuse caused by the design issue.

The design issue was the way I’d wired the charger “still plugged in” relay to the key safety interlock (KSI) on the controller. I need both charger relays (see older posts for detail) to turn on the vent fans. I’d been using the same relay to turn on the controller KSI relay. Unfortunately, that sent 12 volts to the relay even when the car was parked. This was effectively BY PASSING my contactor so that traction voltage (144 v) was still present for the controller, volt meter, and the DC-DC converter. That was not supposed to happen so I disabled it and hooked the KSI to the key on. Now the motor could go even if I’m plugged in (oops), but I always coast down my driveway to start so it was not really much of a safety benefit.

The second issue was a blown fuse (it should be clear not white) in the DC-DC converter. At least, that was easy to find and fix :)

Now the RAVolt and I are happy again.

Heater for “cars w/o engine”

I bought myself a little heater / defroster from Fry’s last week. It was just $10 and has already proven to be valuable. It’s not very powerful, but it does the trick to defrost the windshield or warm up my hands.

Heats without Engine

I especially liked that Fry’s sticker described the heater as “for heat w/o engine.” I’m certain that they did not mean it was a heater for cars without engines, but it describes my application perfectly! Fry’s can caulk up one sale due to poor English.

Note: That little heater is pretty minor so I’m considering putting an AC box heater in the car to warm it up on cold mornings. That would make it nice and toasty!

Who’s choking my amps? It’s Curtis!

One thing I’ve noticed about the RAVolt is that there are times when pushing on the accelerator does not produce more power.  Typically this happens on hills when I really want that extra power.   I’m moving along OK, but my ammeter is pulling a low 200 and the voltage is hardly sagging.  Normally, I can put my foot down and get some extra “go.”  It’s common for me to burst over 400 amps going up a hill.

It turns out that my Curtis controller’s current limiter is on the OUTPUT side of the controller while my ammeter is on the INPUT side.  The PWM (pulse width modulation) going on inside the black box does not always translate directly back into readings on my analog gauges.

I knew that the Curtis had a current limit - I’m just surprised how it shows up.

Dark wizard removes curse of the Auxillary Battery

I have sold my soul to the Dark Wizard, WaldeMart, in exchange for expelling the demon in my auxiliary battery. Under his ever watchful eye (and for $37), I transformed the demonic battery into a non-jinxed battery that is slightly smaller flooded Pb than the original.
Hopefully this will finally cure the Laura EV jinx: I had not driven the RAVolt for a week and the battery was completely shot. Of course, I only discovered that AFTER Laura asked to go for a ride.

What a wind bag! Air springs have marginal results

Alex and I installed the air springs today. They are really just hard balloons that fit inside the rear springs. They don’t provide much extra lift because their max pressures is just 25 lbs. Even so, they did manage to lift the RAVolt a little and correct some of the wheel cant. This may work for a while, but I’ll need new springs eventually.

box   Air Springs

Wheel decanted That’s a little better, but still canted.

Back in a flash!

I got the LED flasher today and installed it.  It still has a nice (but quieter) “click” sound when the blinker is on.

The flasher’s 3 prongs are upside down compared to the RAVolt’s original flasher. Toyota supplied a clip that corrects the orientation for the original flasher and it was easy to remove and reuse. My photo of the clip is blurry, but you can still see the clip between the old (right) and new (left) flashers.

Flasher Clip

Alex and I also swapped out the remaining running lights to LEDs. They were small drains, but I felt compelled to get them because they are cheap and the shipping was the same anyway ;)

Decanting? Some air springs may give the RAV time to breathe.

Looking at the geometry of the rear suspension tie bars, it looks the the canting is due to the rear load. The picture overlay shows that more lift from the springs should definitely improve the wheel angle.

I’m ordering some RAV4 air springs ($65) to try and address the problem.
Geometry

Looking for a flasher (trench coat optional)

The buzzing turn signal is caused because the flasher relay timer uses the resistance from the incandescent bulbs as part of the timing circuit (time = resistance * capacitance). The LEDs have a very different electrical characteristic so the timer does not work correctly. This was a clearly documented probability at the LED vendor’s web site.

The solution is to buy a replacement Flasher. I could not find the part # match: looking at the chart and actual relay I determined that the RAV’s replacement unit is CF13JL-02. I’m keeping my fingers crossed that this is the right $20 part to buy.

This blurry picture was taken blindly. It’s just below the steering column near the clutch peddle. The flasher (now buzzer) is the box on the right.

Flasher relay

What the buzz? LEDs turn, tail, and run

Changing out the incandescent turn signal and tail lights was one of the easiest changes I had to make for the RAVolt. The new bulbs are a drop in replacement for the original bulbs and look the same externally. I had to make sure that I bought the right color match. Red LEDs for the red filter, etc.

Unfortunately, changing the bulbs made my turn signal timing relay (the flasher) angry: it now buzzes like a loud wind-up toy whenever I use the turn signal.
LED vs Lamp

It’s pretty hard to tell the difference between the lights (unless you look at the drain on the battery).

LED light Incandescent
LED Lamp